Tamlyn’s Stratus Top
Well, what a treat this is! I feel very lucky to have the chance to write one of the ‘Three Fabrics, Three Makes’ articles in the last SewHayleyJane box.
When Hayley shared the fabric with me, I was delighted. Viscose Twill is one of my absolute favourite fabrics to work with – I love the drape but it has a bit more body than a standard viscose. Perfect for so many different projects – in fact, I have a gorgeous pair of wide-legged trousers in the black colourway of this.
Although I had lots of different ideas for projects you can make with this fabric, which you can read about elsewhere in the magazine, I knew exactly the pattern I wanted to make.
I recently purchased the French Navy Stratus top – a versatile woven top with set-in sleeves, a comfortable fit and a flattering V-neckline. It also has an optional tie detail for a summery, feminine look. I knew that 1 metre would be enough to make my size in this top (despite the pattern instructions saying I needed more).
When choosing a size for the pattern, I fitted into the D for my bust and a C for my waist and hips. I decided to grade between these sizes, drawing a simple line to blend from bust to waist. I also added 1.5cm to the shoulders – an adjustment I do on most patterns now as I have broader shoulders than most patterns draft for. On reflection, I think 1cm would have been enough.
This was my first time sewing a French Navy pattern and I have to say how impressed I am with the instructions. There are 6 pages of detailed instructions for making adjustments to the pattern, which is fantastic, including grading between sizes, shortening/lengthening, bust adjustments and adapting the depth of the v-neck. I really liked the level of detail used throughout the pattern, the diagrams are very clear and it was a brilliant sew from start to finish.
A couple of changes I did make, purely down to personal preference, were using Prym forming tape to interface the front and back necklines, rather than staystitching which the pattern recommends. I do this whenever I’m sewing with a lightweight or drapey fabric, as staystitching tends to create puckering.
I also prefer to make my ties or straps by sewing them wrong sides together and using the Prym turning set to turn them through to the correct side. I find this quicker and prevents burning your fingers on the iron! However my smallest Prym turning tool was too large for the size of tie, so I recut the tie pieces (I cut them 1” wide) and sewed with a narrow seam allowance, which then enabled me to turn them through.
The last change I made was when it came to the hem. I tried the top on and thought I didn’t want it much shorter, so I decided to overlock the hem and then simply turn over the width of the overlocking stitches and top stitch. I think this looks really neat as well as maintaining as much length as possible.
I’m so happy with this new make – I think it’s the perfect little summer top. You could create very different looks depending on the fabric you choose. In fact, I have plans to do a special video on YouTube where I make this pattern in a few different fabric types to demonstrate the difference fabric choice makes.
The colour of this fabric is just dreamy too – such a soft, beautiful purple that you could pair with something a bit more bold on the bottom half, or a simple pair of jeans like I’ve done here.
After such a successful first experience with French Navy Patterns, I’m off to see what else they have to offer. Isn’t it great when you discover a new pattern company?