Gemma’s Nova Jumpsuit
Gemma loves a jumpsuit and this month she turned to the True Bias Nova Jumpsuit to make with the cotton jersey in the Luxury Box
Well, what a surprise, another jumpsuit from me! In my defense, I only have one jersey jumpsuit pattern in my arsenal, so when I received the gorgeous dotty print jersey in this box I was very interested in adding to my jersey pattern list. I have to admit, I haven’t sewn with jersey fabric as much as I would like, but after buying an overlocker and realising how much easier that makes it I’ve definitely increased!
This month’s jersey is one for the Lilac Lovers Club fans amongst us – such a beautiful shade, and a really nice, simple pattern. I love the colour combinations, and think it is a great one for more ‘casual’ everyday type of makes. Going through my saved pattern inspo board, I was torn between two ideas that I have had saved for a while: the Adrienne Blouse or the Nova Jumpsuit….. Well, it was pretty obvious which one was going to win! I’m a big lover of a jumpsuit, and the thrill of adding another knit version to my makes list was too much to resist!
The Nova pattern from True Bias is a knit jumpsuit with four views, all with fully faced neckline and armholes. Views A and B have a wide elastic waistband and inseam pockets and Views C and D have a straight fit through the waist and attached front pockets. You can also have elastic casing at the ankle for Views B and D, and this is what really grabbed my attention as an interesting feature.
I went for View B as I love an elasticated waist, however I was a little stumped as to which size to make. There are 2 size bands available: size 0-18 or 14-30, the first is drafted to a B-cup and the larger one a D-cup. I am on the sizing of both and so was unsure which way to go. I also wasn’t sure whether to size down or not, as the pattern does suggest to do so if your fabric is quite stretchy, and the pattern is drafted with a lot of ease.
In the end I decided to go with the larger size range, as although I am not a D-cup I was thinking the extra curve in the hip area will most likely be appreciated! I went with my measurements (making me a size 18), as I thought that it is always easier to take in if it comes up too large than add more if it is too small!
Cutting out the fabric, I decided to use the lines of the pattern vertically. Luckily it isn’t too busy a print, so I didn’t worry about pattern matching (but then when do I ever to be honest?!) I was surprised that the pattern cuts out the top and legs together as one piece, which was a bit of a faff to fit on my table, but very clever for ease of construction! Because of this, you do end up with a seam down the middle of the front as well as the back, and so I think that would make a difference when it comes to your fabric choice – it works with this kind of pattern, and would be amazing for plains, but anything too busy with an obvious pattern direction might not work so well unless you are willing to pattern match!
It is actually a more simple sew than I was expecting it to be – once you’ve added your pockets and sewn the side seams you are pretty much done! I really like how the facings are completed: you use these to create a channel for the waistband, again, making it reasonably simple, and definitely faster than if you were perhaps making a woven pattern jumpsuit. It does recommend for advanced beginner levels and I certainly didn’t have any issues with the instructions or construction, and was able to make this up in a couple of afternoons!
Because of the elasticated fit, you can make this as loose or close fitting as you like. Trying it on I felt very smug with myself – it is very ‘secret pyjamas’ territory! Such a great, simple pattern to have on hand, and works perfectly with this fabric. I’m really happy with the fit and glad I chose the size range I did, as I have no issues getting it over my hips. I think it is such a great one for Spring, and I would highly recommend this pattern if you are looking for a very comfortable and casual looking garment!